April 18, 2009
1111 Miss Fava and Corn Cannelloni
December 17, 2008
This Fake Hollandaise Sauce Kicks Butt
I screwed up the Hollandaise sauce, though, which created an emergency situation, obviously. But of course I'm real fine in an emergency.

And really, it was pretty delicious. My falafel was a little too crumbly, and could have been thinner, but overall I think with some tweaking this assembly could be a keeper. The Hollandaise was really nice, the creme fraiche making it tangy and smooth.
Here's what I did:
1/2 cup creme fraiche
1 egg yolk
1 Tablespoon melted butter
dash of Worcestershire sauce
Optional: if you haven't used all your lemons ruining your Hollandaise, add a teaspoon of fresh juice. Otherwise, the creme will give you the tang you need.
With a fork or small whisk, whip the yolk into the creme, then the butter, then the lemon juice and Worcestershire.
Warm the mixture in a small dish set over warm water, stirring frequently.
Serve.
December 9, 2008
Christmas Morning Make-Ahead Breakfast Casserole
When Allana Kellog put out a call on twitter for make-ahead breakfast dishes for Christmas morning, it justsohappened that I'd made this most perfect and spectacularly delicious dish this weekend for company. As a matter of fact, if I had eaten breakfast this morning after looking at my facebook page I would have had a picture to post here. Alas, that last leftover piece is warming my tummy as I write.
I can tell you without reservation that this recipe is foolproof, easy, and flavorful beyond belief. The ingredients are simple. Bread, eggs, cheese, milk, sausage, scallions, a little salt. But something magic happens in the process and the thing comes out tasting marvelously complex.
This recipe comes from my mother. She doesn't know where she got it.
Breakfast Casserole
16 oz day old bread, cubed
10 eggs, lightly beaten
3 cups light cream or whole milk
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup cheddar cheese, shredded
1 cup Swiss cheese, shredded
1 pound sausage, cooked, crumbled and drained
1 bunch scallions, chopped
Butter 9 -by 13-inch baking pan.
Place cubed bread in the pan.
Sprinkle with cheeses.
Combine wet ingredients, and pour over the bread and cheese.
Top with sausage and scallions.
Cover tightly and refrigerate over night.
In the morning, heat the oven to 350 degrees.
Uncover the casserole, and bake for an hour, or until golden brown.
Enjoy!
Notes:
I like to use a good, firm bread.
I really, really like to use a maple sausage in this dish! This weekend I used an andoullie, which I took out of it's casing, browned, then drizzled with a little real maple syrup. Yum!
November 25, 2008
The Secrets of Natalia's Way, Bienmesabe Cake
Somewhere in the process.Bienmesabe
Here's the basic deal: you're going to bake a sponge cake, trim off the top of that cake, pour a fabulous coconut and rum liquid into it the well, top it with tons of Italian meringue, and sprinkle it with sugar.

Instructional photo #1: sifting the flour over the egg mixture
Instructional photo #2: Cake with the top, caramelized part peeled off, leaving the side walls and an upper lip for structurePreheat the oven to 350° F (180° C).
Sponge Cake
(Makes one 9-inch round layer cake or two 6-inch cakes; if you make the two, freeze one)
6 eggs
1 1/4 cup of Sugar
a dash Vanilla extract
1 cup all purpose flour (you'll need a sifter)
Butter and flour the cake pan, and tap out the extra flour.
In a large bowl, beat the eggs with an electric mixer. For a long time. 7 minutes, 10 minutes. A few minutes in, all the vanilla. Beat until the eggs are fluffy and forming up as if you'd beaten the yolks and whites separately. Seriously. (If you're more comfortable you can do them separately, as Natalia says to in her instructions; I'm just telling you what she did in my kitchen).
Instructional photo #1:
Now fold the flour into the eggs. Be very gentle, and very careful not to activate the gluten.
Do not tap the pan(s). Keep the bubbles in the batter intact.
Bake for 25-30 minutes, or until lightly golden and springy to the touch.
Leave the cake(s) in the pan for 5 minutes, then flip onto a sugar covered surface.
Place the cake into a nice deep round platter.
Instructional photo #2:
To remove the top of the cake, lightly drag a fork across the surface so that the brown part begins to peel off. At some point you can start using your fingers. But remember to leave an edge intact so the cake doesn't fall apart!
1 can of coconut milk (just the standard stuff, like you use for Thai or Indian cooking)
1 14 oz. can of sweetened condensed milk
1/4 cup of dark rum (optional)
Mix these together.
In batches, and slowly, pour the milk mixture into the well of the cake, saturating evenly. Here's the trick: as you pour in batches, watch how it absorbs. When it stops absorbing, stop pouring. There will still be some liquid running out from the bottom of the cake.But you are minimizing that, and keeping the structure of the cake, by watching and regulating the liquid. We had about a 1/4 left over. But it's going to be different every time, so just trust your eyes.
Put the cake in the fridge to chill while you make the meringue. Here I am disregarding the recipe Natalia has on her site altogether, because we didn't use that one. She said she put the standard French recipe up so as not to make it all too complicated. But the Italian version is definitely what works for this cake! It's more stable and structured. Italian meringue is made by pouring hot simple syrup into beaten egg whites and continuing to beat. Here is a Tyler Florence's standard recipe. Note, however, that Natalia did not use cream of tartar. I don't see how it can hurt, though.
1/3 cup water
5 egg whites, at room temperature
1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar
Cinnamon
In a small pot over low heat, combine sugar and water. Swirl the pot over the burner to dissolve the sugar completely. Do not stir. Increase the heat and boil to soft-ball stage (235 to 240 degrees). Use a candy thermometer for accuracy. Wash down the inside wall of the pot with a wet pastry brush. This will help prevent sugar crystals from forming around the sides, falling in and causing a chain reaction.
Prepare your meringue.
In the bowl of an electric mixer, whip the eggs whites on low speed until foamy. Add the cream of tartar, increase the speed to medium, and beat until soft peaks form.
With the mixer running, pour the hot sugar syrup in a thin stream over fluffed egg whites. Beat until the egg whites are stiff and glossy. Spread the meringue over a hot cake or pie, and bake as directed.
Assembly
Once the meringue is ready, immediately take the cake from the fridge and start piling it high with the meringue. Use a rubber spatula to make little peaks of the meringue.
Dust the top with cinnamon, through a sifter. Serve, and watch your guests just die from pleasure!
October 13, 2008
Visit Me After The Election, K?
October 8, 2008
Franco and The Sous Chefs
So how's Franco doing without former chef Justin Keimon? Today I decided to find out. After a blood sugar rattling deprivation trip to Mount Pleasant Valley in Augusta (fun because of the good company and the gorgeous view -- their wish to make us buy wine glasses to drink the bottle we bought? tacky) the lack of food available on a weekend? ridiculous), I decided to conclude the hours before Atonement by stopping by Franco for a much needed light supper.

September 26, 2008
Debate Night Party
Here are our takes on the food and the debate:
Me on food: Food was good, not great. But it was Southern.
Me on politics: It's time to sit down with our enemies. That's the core of all problem resolution.
Simone on the debate: Dear John, Please stop repeating ad slogans.
Simone on food: It was poetically just to be eating cornbread and watch a black man debate his way to the Presidency.
Tim on the debate: The most vibrant thing about John Macian was his tie.
Tim on food: At least the food was satisfying.
Robin and Steve: Their quotes later, they left already.
September 17, 2008
Cupcakes Galore, and Many Frostings
Also experimenting with rose, basil, lavender (but very, very mildly lavender), truffled honey, chocolate with lotus nut, rosemary mint (if it comes out tasting like Aveda shampoo it's out), and lemoncello. I would do more research on Cupcake Project but I kind of want to try these straight from my imagination.
More later.
September 7, 2008
The Pad Thai Magic Four: It's So Simple
Fish sauce
Sweet dried radish
Fresh squeezed lime juice
That's the sauce, the base, the Thing That Makes Pad Thai What It Is.
You cannot make a Pad Thai sauce properly without these. You can make it wonderfully with them. And I think they also contain the magic properties that sooth my babygirl's tummy.
The thing is, there are a gazillion Pad Thai recipes, maybe one for every Pad Thai cook, so its impossible to know which one to use and you could spend the rest of your life playing around with them. Which wouldn't be that bad. But I have a feeling that a lot of people stay away from making it at all because the plethora of recipes and confusion of ingredients is just overwhelming.
Those ingredients seem to vary wildly, and of course every cook thinks theirs is the best.
Some call for galagal. Some call for lemon grass. Some call for a lot of garlic, some none. Or ginger, or not. Or teensy dried shrimp, or not.
But I've figured out something really important:
There are four basic ingredients in Pad Thai sauce that are absolutely necessary. Everything other ingredient the gazillions recipes call for in the sauce is optional.
I'm going to tell you what those four ingredients are, and once you have that information you will be able to make a good Pad Thai from pretty much any authoritative Thai cooking source. After I tell you the magic ingredients, I'll give you a couple of other basics, and you're off.
Should you doubt me, please know that I have now pleased the most difficult of Pad Thai critics, my teenage daughter. And she knows her Pad Thai. It soothes her tummy, so we've eaten a lot of it over the last year.
So:
Palm sugar Fish sauce Sweet dried radish Fresh squeezed lime juice
That's your sauce. Those are the totally wonderful magic flavors that make the dish the mysteriously wicked taste fest that it is. And they CANNOT be substituted. Period. You must find the authentic versions. Mail order them if you have to, but you cannot use soy sauce in place of fish sauce, nor any other sugar in place of the palm. Don't leave out the sweet dried radish, and don't even consider lemon for lime.
Look at a recipe for ratios. They are just about in agreement on that.
Then add what you want to, or not, according to the recipe you've chosen.
The other basics are of course:
Rice noodles, soaked in water until they are nice and soft (45 minutes works well for the ones I use, but it will vary by noodle)
Peanut oil
Mung bean sprouts
One or two dried chilies
An egg
Tiny dried shrimp (not too many)
A protein (I use The Best Tofu Marinade in The World, of course, then oven fry it), but if you treat it right any meat will be great
Fresh cilantro
Fresh basil
I like to saute a couple cloves of garlic and the chilies (I grind these two up in a mortar and pestle first) in 1/3 cup of peanut oil, then add the scallions, the drained noodles, then the palm sugar, radish, fish sauce, and dried shrimp all quickly one after another, tossing with each, moving pretty quickly; then toss real well; then move the noodles over to fry the egg, then mix it in; turn off the heat; toss in the sprouts and lime juice and the protein and the fresh herbs, then serve with ground nuts and lime slices and some hot sauce.
That's it. But that's just my version. There is a secret ingredient, but it is so kick ass that I can't believe it, and I've never seen it in any recipes, and so I'm going to hang on to it for the cookbook. Or the noodle shop. Something that will make me some money. Any noodle shop investors out there?
I know that's not a proper recipe, but I don't mean it to be. I don't want to give you a recipe. I want to tell you how easy it is, once you know the magic sauce ingredients, and let you go from there.
One more thing I'll say: don't skimp on the oil. The noodles need it for that slipperiness that's so much fun, and that facilitates all the other flavors.
Go at it.
August 28, 2008
The Beets Are Fantastic
My pickled beets. I think they look a little like very fine nigiri tuna.I have eaten pickled beets in my adult life and not been that crazy about them. Whatever the reason, these taste refreshing and delicious to me.
I hope my mommy likes them.
August 27, 2008
Zee beets! Fini! Oila! Finally!
But I got all set up this afternoon, and everything went quite well. I maintained all sterile protocol and technique, the beets did not seem mushy -- well, a couple of them did but I rejected them immediately and chose only the firm ones.
I did one jar of just tiny ones, uncut, except for the tops and roots cut off. I think they're pretty.
I'm not going to do a total blow-by-blow, since I totally used the instructions at a guy named Paul Noll's blog. (The link is underneath all the pictures. Ya, I want you to look at my photos and my pretty beets before you go over there!) My mom could not remember the recipe, and this one had lots of helpful pictures. So.
Tomorrow I will taste them. Tonight, though, they must cool. I will let you know. Here's the link to instructions: http://www.paulnoll.com/Oregon/Canning/canning-pickled-beets.html
August 25, 2008
Wherefore Art Thou, Beets?
So, lets consider this an experiment called -- oh, I don't know, how about "How Long Can Beets Wait Between Initial Boil and True Pickling?"
If I do them tomorrow and they turn out well then the answer will be: at least 96 hours.
Tune in, ye curiosity seekers. We shall see.
August 24, 2008
Lemon Ginger Toddy with Hot Pepper: Recipe to sooth a cough while the beets rest.
I am a cough machine, fueled by the inconvenient necessity of oxygen. I would be sad to be sick all alone if it weren't for the equally inconvenient reality that before the heartbreak I was just as alone when I was sick so screw all that. And Molly's on her way over and that will be nice. And Pam and I did go out for a mimosa this morning -- a slight trail given my feverish state, ;-) but one I entered willingly (that's meant to be an obvious understatement -- I was to get out of the house) and have a mimosa)).
So the beets are still resting in the fridge and I'll tell you what: it's hard to find a medicine to make my coughing stop long enough to sleep! I'm trying all sorts of over the counter suppressants and none of them work at all. I just get groggier. Turns out, the old stand-by works. And it works like magic. I drink this, nice and hot, and the loveliest warming happens in the top of my chest, where the persistent tickling lives, and I stop coughing. Only trouble is, it wears off and I don't have the energy to keep myself in supply, jumping up and down to make the concoction over and over again. That's the Catch-22. Unlike what's in a bottle, unless you have someone around to make it for you, it runs out. But, if you have a loved one with a chest cold here's your ticket to soothing their cough. Just be sure that if you're giving it to a child you leave out the rum and the hot pepper, duh.
This recipe is based on the classic Lemon Honey Tea that I brought my children up on. It is what should be given to children sick with colds. That over-the-counter stuff is crap. I never game them that stuff.
I'll give you both recipes. First, the basic one. Then, be punched up version. Both are fantastic.
Basic Lemon Honey "Tea"
1 T honey
juice of 1/2 to 1 lemon (or lime)
hot water
Stir together and drink up. Feel Better.
K, that was the basic. Here's the ultra-enhanced grown-ups only version:
Lemon Ginger Toddy with Rum and Red Pepper
And if you don't think this will put the whammy to a cold you're just nuts.
1 1/4 cups water
1 T honey
juice of 1 lemon or lime
several slices fresh or candied ginger
1 tsp rum
1 fresh or dried red pepper, undisturbed
Boil the ginger and the whole pepper together in the water for ten minutes or so.
Put honey and lemon juice in a mug, and pour the hot ginger-pepper water in.
Savour.
August 22, 2008
Sorry, Beets On Hold
I got them trimmed, cleaned, and through their initial boil when my chest cold and sadness and the compelling prospect of drinking wine with a kind friend who'd come to cheer me up due to this current romance trouble of mine did me in. So I drained them off, sealed them up in a ceramic bowl and plastic wrap, and put them in the fridge. I hope they don't get mushy.
Reminder to all: grief settles in the chest. Take a rest if you need to. Better the beets bleed.
Love & Peace,
M

August 21, 2008
Mojitos and the Canning of Beets for Mamma
This is stage 1. Sterilizing the cans and lids and making the mojito. Tune in a couple hours from now and I'll show you Step 2. Woo!
The modern canner's tableaux: large canning pot, smaller pot to sterilize lids, and laptop with the instructions up!
The cans waiting to be boiled. This enameled pot takes ages to come to a boil!
And at last, the Mighty Mojito!
August 20, 2008
Beef Pizzaiolla, from Cheryl Richter

So Cheryl's mommy is Italian. Old New York family. I won't name names. Let's just say I've been told not to sit next to the restaurant window when dining out with them. There's some cooking going on there, and no matter what Cheryl says she got the gene.
Since it's tomato season, here's a little beauty from Cheryl I think you might love:
Beef Pizzaiolla
Cheryl says: This recipe an be made with beef or veal, but I prefer the beef. I suppose you could do it with pork chops or chicken, but I haven't had it that way. Save any leftover tomatoes sauce and use it on a macaroni as a side dish.
Ingredients
2 pounds beef -- round steak cut 3/4" thick, or veal rib or loin cut 1/2" thick
1 1/2 pounds fresh or 1 20 oz can of good plum tomatoes
2 cloves minced garlic
1 tsp dried oregano
1/2 tsp chopped fresh parsley
salt and pepper to taste
grated Parmesan or Romano
good olive oil
De-seed the tomatoes, and put them through a food mill (alternately, put them through a food processor, then strain) until liquid but not mushy. Set aside.
Add the garlic, oregano, parsley, salt and pepper to the tomatoes, and stir.
In a large skillet, heat 1/4 cup of olive oil over medium high heat.
Sear the meat on both sides, lower the heat and leave in the pan.
Top the meat with the tomato mixture.
Let simmer on low heat for about 45 minutes, until the meat is fork tender.
Top with the grated cheese.
Serve with a nice rusty bread and a bottle of red wine.

